The Krilo Spreads Its Wings

Published in Highlights
As Mara of the excellent blog-website Go Hvar described recently, island hopping in Dalmatia can be "a bit of a challenge", to put it mildly, especially out of season.
It takes perseverance to overcome the obstacles, although it can be done. In Mara's case tenacity resulted in a memorable trip with husband Zdravko to Hvar's near-neighbour Korčula, recorded in a couple of equally memorable descriptions in words and pictures.

In the summer season, island-hopping becomes easier. This year the new high-speed boat service operated by U.T.O. Kapetan Luka linking Split with Milna (Brač), Hvar Town, Korčula and Dubrovnik has already proved a great success since starting on May 15th 2014. It is set to run until October 18th 2014, weather permitting of course. The boat on this route is the sleek-looking Krilo, which means wing in Croatian. The company name of Krilo derives from the place Krilo Jesenice, near Omiš south of Split, which is the home town of the Tomić family who own the company. Krilo Jesenice is famous for having the largest fleet of sailing boats on the Adriatic by long tradition.

The high-speed trip from Split to Dubrovnik takes something less than five hours. It is much quicker than the car ferry along the same route, so it is the best choice if you want to get to your destination as quickly as possible, and are not taking a car with you. The ferry trip, however, has certain advantages: you can be outdoors on the deck relaxing with a good book and a cool drink, and you can enjoy a reasonably good leisurely meal in the restaurant. And if you are taking a car, it saves you the drive down the coast. This avoids having to pass through the small stretch of land which belongs to Bosnia and Hercegovina. Although crossing these borders is rarely a problem, it is an area outside the EU, so the border authorities may perform checks on people and goods passing through.

On the high-speed boat, passengers have to have a seat inside the cabin. Once the boat is full to capacity there is no room for extra passengers. Tickets for the high-speed service can be purchased in Split on the pier in the middle of the port (Gat Sv. Petra, nearly opposite the entrance to the railway station), tel. 00 385 (0)21 645476; in Hvar Town from Pelegrini Tours on the pier, tel. 00 385 (0)21 742743; in Korčula from the kiosk on the western pier, tel. 00 385 (0)91 4770272; in Dubrovnik from the Elite Travel office (Tel 020 313 178), or in the Gruz passenger port office opposite the Hotel Palace. Tickets can also be booked online, but usually still have to be collected in person. We advise buying your ticket as early as possible to ensure you have a place on the boat. You are required to present a valid ID to travel on the ship.

For sailing times, destinations and prices, click here.

U.T.O.Kapetan Luka operates a number of high-speed services between Split and the islands to the south of Split, as well as charter possibilities. The company now concentrates on high-speed vessels, but previously it boasted an extremely fine cruising yacht, the M/Y Kapetan Luka. Built in 1990, when Croatia was just emerging into independence from former Yugoslavia, it survived the ensuing Homeland War (1991 - 1995), and was put to good use as a cruise ship when peace was restored. I first came across it when my cousin Maja and her husband Joži sailed on it into Jelsa harbour with some friends in June 2007. The boat was exquisitely appointed inside and out, and the passengers couldn't praise it highly enough. As Joži is a yachting judge of many years' standing, his wholehearted recommendation carried great weight, and I could see it was well deserved. The 'Kapetan Luka' was later sold to Jerolim Nazor, also from Krilo Jesenice, like the Tomić family from whom he bought this splendid vessel. Jerolim Nazor has for many years run beautifully renovated wooden sailing boats for daytime tourist cruises and night-time fishing. His main vessel in recent times has been the 'Otac Duje', which is also the name of his company. Now known as the 'Kapetan Kuka' the 'Kapetan Luka' is available for private hire through Dream Journey Yachting.

© Vivian Grisogono 2014

You are here: Home

Eco Environment News feeds

  • Study says funding to cope with climate breakdown needed five years earlier than expected

    Poor countries need $1tn a year in climate finance by 2030, five years earlier than rich countries are likely to agree to at UN climate talks, a new study has found.

    Waiting until 2035 to receive the funding, which is to help them cut greenhouse gas emissions and cope with extreme weather, would place damaging burdens on vulnerable countries, warned the Independent High-Level Expert Group on Climate Finance, a group of leading economists.

    Continue reading...

  • Exclusive: Mia Mottley, who has championed climate action, says she would seek common ground with US president-elect

    Mia Mottley, the climate-championing prime minister of Barbados, has invited Donald Trump to a face-to-face meeting where she would seek “common ground” and persuade him that climate action was in his own interests.

    “Let us find a common purpose in saving the planet and saving livelihoods,” she told the Guardian at the UN’s Cop29 climate summit in Azerbaijan. “We are human beings and we have the capacity to meet face-to-face, in spite of our differences. We want humanity to survive. And the evidence [of the climate crisis] we are seeing almost weekly now.”

    Continue reading...

  • The H-2A program might grow under Trump and mass deportations

    Agriculture rules in Quincy, Washington. Sprawling apple, cherry and peach orchards surround this rural city of about 8,000. Packing sheds dot the middle of downtown. Railroad tracks run close to the Columbia River, so produce can make its way to market by both train and waterway.

    Farm workers such as Alberto, who is only using his first name for privacy reasons, are the backbone of the industry. Once a migrant farm worker traveling around California and Washington state for jobs, he now lives permanently in Quincy with his family. There, he’s found steady year-round work planting, tending and harvesting crops at various farms. With that more stable work, he and other domestic farm workers have built a tight community in Grant county.

    Continue reading...

  • Gigantic multicoloured organism is visible from space and has grown for between 300 and 500 years

    The world’s largest known coral, visible from space, has been discovered in the waters of the Solomon Islands.

    With a circumference of 183 metres, the gigantic multicoloured organism is an intricate network of individual coral polyps that have grown for between 300 and 500 years.

    Continue reading...

  • Analysis by Climate Action Tracker puts median temperature rise by 2100 at 2.7C if current policies continue

    World leaders have promised to try to stop the planet heating by more than 1.5C (2.7F). But current policies put the temperature rise on track for 2.7C, a report has found.

    The expected level of global heating by the end of the century has not changed since 2021, with “minimal progress” made this year, according to the Climate Action Tracker project. The consortium’s estimate has not shifted since the Cop26 climate summit in Glasgow three years ago.

    Continue reading...

  • The climate crisis created the setting for Trump’s economy-first win and it’s the global south that will suffer most

    Donald Trump’s election is a triumph for the politics of the doomsday bunker, which is bad news for the world’s environment.

    This is the idea that in an age of climate disruption, nature extinction and ever wider social inequality, the best chance of survival for those who can afford it is to construct a personal shelter, where they can keep the desperate masses at bay. It is survival of the richest.

    Continue reading...

  • I was part of the firefighting group. Then the fire overtook us. This is Panagiotis’ story

    Location Penteli, Greece

    Disaster Attica Wildfires, 2024

    Panagiotis, a student and volunteer firefighter, ended up defending his own home when a wildfire broke out in the summer. TheAttica wildfires killed one person and burned more than 8,000 hectares of forest and land, including many homes. Dozens of people were hospitalised due to smoke inhalation.

    Continue reading...

  • Months after devastating rains displaced 420,000 people in Rio Grande do Sul, an unusual consensus has formed around the need for a faster transition to renewables

    Beside a narrow canal that runs through the outskirts of Porto Alegre in southern Brazil, a row of wooden houses with makeshift fences lean among piles of debris and power poles tangled in sagging wires. From the dirt road, Alexandra Marina Romero, 27, gazes at the aftermath of a disaster. “There used to be a church here,” she says. “Now it’s all gone.”

    In May, a devastating flood ravaged her neighbourhood, leaving a trail of chaos and triggering a humanitarian crisis. “What we went through was horrific. The water took over everything,” says Romero, a supermarket assistant who migrated to Brazil from Venezuela in 2018.

    Continue reading...

  • Even among other sightings including orangutans, the rhinoceros hornbill was the highlight of the trip

    I’d never seen a flying rhino before. Then again, I’d never visited the lowland rainforest of Borneo. This is the main stronghold of the rhinoceros hornbill, one of the largest and most imposing of its bizarre family.

    So when a huge black-and-white bird flew out of the forest canopy, I was suitably impressed. I was most struck by its huge and prominent bill, topped with the orange-tinted and uniquely up-curved casque, the horn-like protuberance that gives the species its name.

    Continue reading...

  • After five years making Energy UK ‘noisier’ on green issues, Emma Pinchbeck has been picked to lead the UK’s fight against global heating

    ‘I was a risk when they hired me,” smiles Emma Pinchbeck. The chief executive of Energy UK, the voice of the industry, is hours away from a black-tie awards event that will serve as her unofficial leaving do. After almost five years in the role, she will join the government’s climate watchdog, the Climate Change Committee, in a matter of days.

    “It’s pretty funny to remind people of this now, but I was an untested risk. I don’t think back in 2019 if you’d said to the energy industry, ‘who would you want as a spokesperson for the sector in a time of crisis?’ that they’d necessarily have chosen someone like me.”

    Continue reading...

Eco Health News feeds

Eco Nature News feeds

  • EDITOR’S NOTE:Few places on Earth are as evocative — or as imperiled — as the vast grasslands of sub-Saharan Africa. In a new Conservation News series, “Saving the Savanna,” we look at how communities are working to protect these places — and the wildlife within.

    MARA NORTH CONSERVANCY, Kenya — Under a fading sun, Kenya’s Maasai Mara came alive.

    A land cruiser passed through a wide-open savanna, where a pride of lions stirred from a day-long slumber. Steps away, elephants treaded single-file through tall grass, while giraffes peered from a thicket of acacia trees. But just over a ridge was a sight most safari-goers might not expect — dozens of herders guiding cattle into an enclosure for the night. The herders were swathed in vibrant red blankets carrying long wooden staffs, their beaded jewelry jingling softly.

    Maasai Mara is the northern reach of a massive, connected ecosystem beginning in neighboring Tanzania’s world-famous Serengeti. Unlike most parks, typically managed by local or national governments, these lands are protected under a wildlife conservancy — a unique type of protected area managed directly by the Indigenous People who own the land.

    Conservancies allow the people that live near national parks or reserves to combine their properties into large, protected areas for wildlife. These landowners can then earn income by leasing that land for safaris, lodges and other tourism activities. Communities in Maasai Mara have created 24 conservancies, protecting a total of 180,000 hectares (450,000 acres) — effectively doubling the total area of habitat for wildlife in the region, beyond the boundaries of nearby Maasai Mara National Reserve.

    “It's significant income for families that have few other economic opportunities — around US$ 350 a month on average for a family. In Kenya, that's the equivalent of a graduate salary coming out of university,” said Elijah Toirai, Conservation International’s community engagement lead in Africa.

    © Jon McCormack

    Lions tussle in the tall grass of Mara North Conservancy.

    But elsewhere in Africa, the conservancy model has remained far out of reach.

    “Conservancies have the potential to lift pastoral communities out of poverty in many African landscapes. But starting a conservancy requires significant funding — money they simply don't have,” said Bjorn Stauch, senior vice president of Conservation International’s nature finance division.

    Upfront costs can include mapping out land boundaries, removing fences that prevent the movement of wildlife, eradicating invasive species that crowd out native grasses, creating firebreaks to prevent runaway wildfires, as well building infrastructure like roads and drainage ditches that are essential for successful safaris. Once established, conservancies need to develop management plans that guide their specified land use for the future.

    Conservation International wanted to find a way for local communities to start conservancies and strengthen existing ones. Over the next three years, the organization aims to invest millions of dollars in new and emerging conservancies across Southern and East Africa. The funds will be provided as loans, which the conservancies will repay through tourism leases. This financing will jumpstart new conservancies and reinforce those already in place. The approach builds on an initial model that has proven highly effective and popular with local communities.

    “We’re always looking for creative new ways to pay for conservation efforts that last,” Stauch said. “This is really a durable financing mechanism that puts money directly in the pockets of those who live closest to nature — giving them a leg up. And it’s been proven to work in the direst circumstances imaginable.”

    © Will McCarry

    Elijah Toirai explains current conservancy boundaries and potential areas for expansion.

    Creativity from crisis

    In 2020, the entire conservancy model almost collapsed overnight.

    “No one thought that the world could stop in 24 hours,” said Kelvin Alie, senior vice president and acting Africa lead for Conservation International. “But then came the pandemic, and suddenly Kenya is shutting its doors on March 23, 2020. And in the Mara, this steady and very well-rounded model based on safari tourism came to a screeching halt.”

    Tourism operators, who generate the income to pay landowners' leases, found themselves without revenue. Communities faced a difficult choice: replace the lost income by fencing off their lands for grazing, converting it to agriculture, or selling to developers — each of which would have had drastic consequences for the Maasai Mara’s people and wildlife.

    © Will Turner

    A black-backed jackal hunts for prey.

    “But then the nature finance team at Conservation International — these crazy guys — came up with a wild idea,” Alie said. “In just six months they put this entirely new funding model together: loaning money at an affordable rate to the conservancies so that they can continue to pay staff and wildlife rangers.”

    Conservation International and the Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association launched the African Conservancies Fund — a rescue package to offset lost revenues for approximately 3,000 people in the area who rely on tourism income. Between December 2020 and December 2022, the fund provided more than US$ 2 million in affordable loans to four conservancies managing 70,000 hectares (170,000 acres).

    The loans enabled families in the Maasai Mara to continue receiving income from their lands to pay for health care, home repairs, school fees and more. And because tourism revenues — not government funding — support wildlife protection in conservancies, this replacement funding ensured wildlife patrols continued normally, with rangers working full time.

    Born out of this emergency, we discovered a new way to do conservation.

    Elijah Toirai

    “The catastrophe of COVID-19 was total for us,” said Benard Leperes, a landowner with Mara North Conservancy and a conservation expert at Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association. “Without Conservation International and the fund, this landscape would have not been secured; the conservancies would have disintegrated as people were forced to sell their land to convert it to agriculture.”

    But it was communities themselves that proved the model might be replicable after the pandemic ended.

    “The conservancies had until 2023 before the first payment was due,” Toirai said. “But as soon as tourism resumed in mid-2021, the communities started paying back the loans. Today, the loans are being repaid way ahead of schedule.”

    “Born out of this emergency, we discovered a new way to do conservation.”

    A new era for conservation

    The high plateaus overlooking the Maasai Mara are home to the very last giant pangolins in Kenya.

    These mammals, armored with distinctive interlocking scales, are highly endangered because of illegal wildlife trade. In Kenya, threats from poaching, deforestation and electric fences meant to deter elephants from crops have caused the species to nearly disappear. Today, scientists believe there could be as few as 30 giant pangolins left in Kenya.

    Conservancies could be crucial to bringing them back. Conservation International has identified opportunities to provide transformative funding for conservancies in this area — a sprawling grassland northwest of Maasai Mara that is the very last pangolin stronghold in the country. The fund will help communities better protect an existing 10,000-hectare (25,000-acre) conservancy and bring an additional 5,000 hectares under protection. It provides a safety net, ensuring a steady income for the communities as the work of expanding the conservancy begins. With a stable income, communities can start work to restore the savanna and remove electric fences that have killed pangolins. And as wildlife move back into the ecosystem, the grasslands will begin to recover.

    In addition to expanding conservancies around Maasai Mara, Conservation International has identified other critical ecosystems where community conservancies can help lift people out poverty, while providing new habitats for wildlife. Conservation International has ambitious plans to restore a critical and highly degraded savanna between Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks in southern Kenya, as well as a swath of savanna outside Kruger National Park in South Africa.

    © Emily Nyrop

    A lone acacia tree in a sea of grass.

    Elephants, fire, Maasai and cattle

    Many of the new and emerging community conservancies have been carefully chosen as key wildlife corridors that would be threatened by overgrazing livestock.

    When the first Maasai Mara conservancies were established in 2009, cattle grazing was prohibited within their boundaries. When poorly managed, cattle can wear grasses down to their roots, triggering topsoil erosion and the loss of nutrients, microbes and biodiversity vital for soil health. It was also believed that tourists would be put off by the sight of livestock mingling with wildlife.

    © Emily Nyrop

    Cattle are closely monitored in the Maasai Mara to prevent overgrazing.

    However, over the years, landowners objected, lamenting the loss of cultural ties to cattle and herding. “That was when we changed tactics,” said Raphael Kereto, the grazing manager for Mara North Conservancy.

    Beginning in 2018, Mara North and other conservancies in the region started adopting livestock grazing practices to restore the savanna. Landowners agreed to periodically move livestock between different pastures, allowing grazed lands to recover and regrow,  mimicking the traditional methods pastoralists have used on these lands for hundreds, if not thousands, of years.

    “Initially, there was a worry that maybe herbivores and other wildlife will run away from cattle,” said Kereto. “But we have seen the exact opposite — the wildlife all follow where cattle are grazing. This is because we have a lot of grass, and all the animals follow where there is a lot of grass. We even saw a cheetah with a cub that spent all her time rotating with wildlife.”

    “It's amazing — when we move cattle, the cheetah comes with it.”

    The loans issued by the fund — now called the African Conservancies Facility — will enhance rotational grazing systems, which are practiced differently in each conservancy, by incorporating best practices and lessons from the organization’s Herding for Health program in southern Africa.

    © Will Turner

    An elephant herd stares down a pack of hyenas.

    For landowners like Dickson Kaelo, who was among the pioneers to propose the conservancy model in Kenya, the return of cattle to the ecosystem has restored a natural order.

    “I always wanted to understand how it was that there was so much more wildlife in the conservancies than in Maasai Mara National Reserve,” said Kaelo, who heads the Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Association, based in Nairobi.

    “I went to the communities and asked them this question. They told me savannas were created by elephants, fire and Maasai and cattle, and excluding any one of those is not good for the health of the system. So, I believe in the conservancies — I know that every single month, people go to the bank and they have some money, they haven't lost their culture because they still are cattle keepers, and the land is much healthier, with more grass, more wildlife, and the trees have not been cut.

    “For me, it’s something really beautiful.”


    Further reading:

    Will McCarry is the content director at Conservation International. Want to read more stories like this? Sign up for email updates. Also, please consider supporting our critical work.

  • Conservation International is helping recover a savanna habitat nearly twice the size of Manhattan.

  • “Nature is resilient — when given the chance.” A Conservation International study shows where trees can grow back on their own — and fight climate change.

  • "Before, we were working blind": A new Conservation International study gives scientists an unprecedented view into a remote tropical forest.

  • Conservation International is launching a historic conservation partnership to plant 1 billion trees and protect 1 million hectares across India, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Nepal.

  • More than one in three of the world’s tree species are at risk of extinction, according to the first Global Tree Assessment, published today.

  • Ocean protections are lagging dangerously. Here’s what it’s going to take to meet global goals, according to a Conservation International marine scientist.

  • Years of civil war left Mozambique’s national parks in ruins. But in one park, a decade of conservation has brought the savanna roaring back to life. Now, Conservation International and Peace Parks Foundation are replicating this success on a massive scale.

  • Earlier this year, three zebra shark pups became the first endangered sharks ever to be bred in captivity for the purpose of being released into the wild. They're part of a bold plan to bring sharks back from the brink of extinction.

  • A small Pacific island nation is behind a landmark U.N. resolution that could hold carbon-polluting countries to account for failing to act on climate change. Conservation News explains what the resolution means and how it could advance climate justice.