Jelsa's Digital Nomads

Published in Highlights

Jessica Romano and Thibaud Duprat settled in Jelsa as remote workers during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Jessica and Thibaud, official nomad residents Jessica and Thibaud, official nomad residents Photo: Vivian Grisogono

They found the ideal spiritual retreat in which to ride out the crisis. The Digital Nomad Visa scheme, introduced in Croatia in January 2021, is a major step forward in Croatia's capacity for attracting guests to the country. All credit to Jan de Jong for initiating the scheme, Paul Bradbury, Director of Total Croatia News, for recognizing its value and promoting it, and Prime Minister Andrej Plenković for taking prompt action to make it happen. The result was a new Law passed in record quick time, for the benefit of all concerned!

Digital nomads Thibaud and Jessica exploring Hvar Town. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Digital nomads are people who can work remotely at their jobs via the internet. Some have been roaming the world over the last few years, settling in the countries which welcomed them for months at a time. The Covid-19 crisis, which began worldwide in 2020, was an added powerful incentive for remote workers to seek out pleasant and relatively safe places in which they could continue to earn their living, and Croatia has always had much to offer them. The Digital Nomad Visa scheme gives them added benefits, most notably beneficial tax regulations.

Local lore has it that visitors who drink from Jelsa's historic fountain will stay on...Photo: Vivian Grisogono

By definition, digital nomads are energetic, enterprising and adventurous. They hail from all parts of the globe and are keen to explore the world. Many of them want to do good in the places they visit, so they volunteer to take part in local projects to help the people around them. Digital nomad Cynthia Burkhardt from New York sees volunteering as a way of giving something back to her host countries, which gets her away from the computer, as well as helping her to keep in touch with the real world and make new friends.

Enjoying the historic sights of Hvar Town. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Hvar has been attracting digital nomads for some time. In August 2020, Jessica Romano and Thibaud Duprat arrived from the United States, and quickly settled in Jelsa. They had done a lot of travelling previously, covering some 50 countries around the globe between them. They had even thought of staying long-term in some places, including Singapore, France, U.K., Spain, Italy and Australia. Jessica is a New Yorker; Thibaud was born in Paris, but his family moved to the United States when he was 10. Their work in IT brought them together over five years ago, when they were both working for the same firm in Silicon Valley. Jessica works in business development with a specialization in financial technology, while Thibaud is a Product Manager, the link between the business and technology sides of companies.

Happy in Jelsa. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Their choice of such a small place as Jelsa might seem surprising. Their explanation: "A few months into Covid-19, we decided to take full advantage of our ability to work remotely. Our initial intent was to spend a month or so in different European countries until we felt like laying down roots in one place. We had wanted to relocate to Europe for a while - and, despite the uncertainty of 2020, the timing and situation made it possible for us to finally make it happen. We chose Croatia because of its beauty, central location, and it was one of the few places open to Americans."

Walking the dogs in Pitve. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Jessica had visited Hvar before in 2016, but only discovered Jelsa when she and Thibaud were looking for accommodation. They fell in love with the views and thought that a small town on an island would be a great place to ride out the pandemic. "Our original plan was to travel on to Italy or Spain in November, but with Covid-19 rising again at that time, we decided to stay put. We had quickly grown to enjoy our life here in Jelsa. Within a few weeks of arriving, we began to make friends and felt comfortable with our surroundings and routine. These reasons influenced our decision to stay. We’d love to be able to visit other places in Croatia and around Europe but will wait until the pandemic subsides. Despite the restrictions, Jelsa has felt like an oasis over the past few months. It’s been great to live in a place that is relatively isolated during this time. The friends we made, combined with our current home being really great, meant we felt we didn't need to move, especially during a pandemic."

Thibaud and happy dogs in Pitve. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Thibaud and Jessica have found plenty to enjoy in Jelsa. As Jessica describes it: "I love walking around and seeing the sea, other islands, the changing colors of the sky, the farmland, the mountains on the mainland, the olive groves, the historic buildings - even the stones around the harbor. I’ve always enjoyed going for walks, hikes and runs, and Jelsa is one of the most gorgeous places to do that. I also like that life here is seemingly more relaxed and grounded than other places I’ve lived... I like to get outside and explore the island. Anything that supports wellness, such as walks, hikes, other workouts, and meditation, is particularly enjoyable for me." Thibaud sums up what Jelsa means to them: "It's stunningly beautiful, it's small and peaceful". Both Jessica and Thibaud love sports and exercise. Thibaud is a good soccer player, and was quickly drafted into the Jelsa soccer team. For him, experiencing rock climbing for the first time was a particular highlight.

The Cave Monastery, Sveta Nedjelja. Photo: Ivica Drinković

In the summer, they enjoyed swimming, as well as discovering Hvar's hidden coves and beaches. Over winter, they visited some of Hvar's wondrous sites, such as the Tor above Jelsa and the 15th century Cave Monastery above Sveta Nedjelja.

Olive picking. Photo courtesy of Jess Romano

They have also enjoyed being introduced to local activities and customs, such as olive picking in the autumn, wine tasting, and the local cuisine. They both love cooking. Their social activities, outside of lockdown, include inviting friends for meals to sample 'exotic' international dishes, and in exchange being invited to try Dalmatian recipes cooked up by expert local chefs within their social circle. They have established friendships which are set to last a lifetime. Language differences are not a problem: they are, slowly but surely, learning a little basic Croatian, while their friends revel in the opportunity to practise and improve their English communication skills.

Jessica and Thibaud love cooking and entertaining friends. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Besides the fact that they are easygoing, sociable characters, one of the reasons why Jessica and Thibaud made friends quickly was their willingness to contribute to the community. Not long after arriving in Jelsa, they volunteered to help our charity Eco Hvar, and have provided invaluable help caring for the animals on a regular basis ever since. Thibaud also helped a local group to build two climbing walls for aspiring alpinists. They care about the environment: having noticed the amount of litter scattered around, Jessica always carries gloves and a trash bag for collecting it up when she goes out walking or running.

Getting a car has meant the freedom to explore further afield. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

The Digital Nomad Visa with its attendant benefits was introduced early in 2021, and has been a bonus for remote workers. On March 1st, Jessica, as an employee of an American IT firm, became the first digital nomad on Hvar to have her application approved. As Thibaud is independent, he is not eligible for the special visa, but has acquired temporary residence. They both feel that the Digital Nomad Visa is "a smart move for Croatia and a wonderful opportunity for expats. Getting a visa or temporary residence can be stressful (or impossible) in some places, so having a straightforward path to maintaining temporary but extended residence is a great option." Thibaud adds that a further step forward would be for Croatia to introduce "a business incentive à la Belarus for startup and tech".

Relaxing in the sun. Photo: Vivian Grisogono

Thibaud and Jessica are planning to stay on in Jelsa for some time, and have invested in a car to make exploring the island easier. When (or if!) they eventually leave, they will take with them extremely happy memories, and will leave behind lasting positive traces of their sojourn. Wherever they roam, the friendships they have forged will endure and go with them. And they will always be welcome to return. We at Eco Hvar are extremely grateful to them for their invaluable help and support!

© Vivian Grisogono MA(Oxon) March 2021.

You can follow Jessica and Thibaud's travel experiences on their blog: Tales Traversed.

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  • EDITOR’S NOTE:Few places on Earth are as evocative — or as imperiled — as the vast grasslands of sub-Saharan Africa. In a new Conservation News series, “Saving the Savanna,” we look at how communities are working to protect these places — and the wildlife within.

    MARA NORTH CONSERVANCY, Kenya — Under a fading sun, Kenya’s Maasai Mara came alive.

    A land cruiser passed through a wide-open savanna, where a pride of lions stirred from a day-long slumber. Steps away, elephants treaded single-file through tall grass, while giraffes peered from a thicket of acacia trees. But just over a ridge was a sight most safari-goers might not expect — dozens of herders guiding cattle into an enclosure for the night. The herders were swathed in vibrant red blankets carrying long wooden staffs, their beaded jewelry jingling softly.

    Maasai Mara is the northern reach of a massive, connected ecosystem beginning in neighboring Tanzania’s world-famous Serengeti. Unlike most parks, typically managed by local or national governments, these lands are protected under a wildlife conservancy — a unique type of protected area managed directly by the Indigenous People who own the land.

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    © Jon McCormack

    Lions tussle in the tall grass of Mara North Conservancy.

    But elsewhere in Africa, the conservancy model has remained far out of reach.

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    Conservation International wanted to find a way for local communities to start conservancies and strengthen existing ones. Over the next three years, the organization aims to invest millions of dollars in new and emerging conservancies across Southern and East Africa. The funds will be provided as loans, which the conservancies will repay through tourism leases. This financing will jumpstart new conservancies and reinforce those already in place. The approach builds on an initial model that has proven highly effective and popular with local communities.

    “We’re always looking for creative new ways to pay for conservation efforts that last,” Stauch said. “This is really a durable financing mechanism that puts money directly in the pockets of those who live closest to nature — giving them a leg up. And it’s been proven to work in the direst circumstances imaginable.”

    © Will McCarry

    Elijah Toirai explains current conservancy boundaries and potential areas for expansion.

    Creativity from crisis

    In 2020, the entire conservancy model almost collapsed overnight.

    “No one thought that the world could stop in 24 hours,” said Kelvin Alie, senior vice president and acting Africa lead for Conservation International. “But then came the pandemic, and suddenly Kenya is shutting its doors on March 23, 2020. And in the Mara, this steady and very well-rounded model based on safari tourism came to a screeching halt.”

    Tourism operators, who generate the income to pay landowners' leases, found themselves without revenue. Communities faced a difficult choice: replace the lost income by fencing off their lands for grazing, converting it to agriculture, or selling to developers — each of which would have had drastic consequences for the Maasai Mara’s people and wildlife.

    © Will Turner

    A black-backed jackal hunts for prey.

    “But then the nature finance team at Conservation International — these crazy guys — came up with a wild idea,” Alie said. “In just six months they put this entirely new funding model together: loaning money at an affordable rate to the conservancies so that they can continue to pay staff and wildlife rangers.”

    Conservation International and the Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association launched the African Conservancies Fund — a rescue package to offset lost revenues for approximately 3,000 people in the area who rely on tourism income. Between December 2020 and December 2022, the fund provided more than US$ 2 million in affordable loans to four conservancies managing 70,000 hectares (170,000 acres).

    The loans enabled families in the Maasai Mara to continue receiving income from their lands to pay for health care, home repairs, school fees and more. And because tourism revenues — not government funding — support wildlife protection in conservancies, this replacement funding ensured wildlife patrols continued normally, with rangers working full time.

    Born out of this emergency, we discovered a new way to do conservation.

    Elijah Toirai

    “The catastrophe of COVID-19 was total for us,” said Benard Leperes, a landowner with Mara North Conservancy and a conservation expert at Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association. “Without Conservation International and the fund, this landscape would have not been secured; the conservancies would have disintegrated as people were forced to sell their land to convert it to agriculture.”

    But it was communities themselves that proved the model might be replicable after the pandemic ended.

    “The conservancies had until 2023 before the first payment was due,” Toirai said. “But as soon as tourism resumed in mid-2021, the communities started paying back the loans. Today, the loans are being repaid way ahead of schedule.”

    “Born out of this emergency, we discovered a new way to do conservation.”

    A new era for conservation

    The high plateaus overlooking the Maasai Mara are home to the very last giant pangolins in Kenya.

    These mammals, armored with distinctive interlocking scales, are highly endangered because of illegal wildlife trade. In Kenya, threats from poaching, deforestation and electric fences meant to deter elephants from crops have caused the species to nearly disappear. Today, scientists believe there could be as few as 30 giant pangolins left in Kenya.

    Conservancies could be crucial to bringing them back. Conservation International has identified opportunities to provide transformative funding for conservancies in this area — a sprawling grassland northwest of Maasai Mara that is the very last pangolin stronghold in the country. The fund will help communities better protect an existing 10,000-hectare (25,000-acre) conservancy and bring an additional 5,000 hectares under protection. It provides a safety net, ensuring a steady income for the communities as the work of expanding the conservancy begins. With a stable income, communities can start work to restore the savanna and remove electric fences that have killed pangolins. And as wildlife move back into the ecosystem, the grasslands will begin to recover.

    In addition to expanding conservancies around Maasai Mara, Conservation International has identified other critical ecosystems where community conservancies can help lift people out poverty, while providing new habitats for wildlife. Conservation International has ambitious plans to restore a critical and highly degraded savanna between Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks in southern Kenya, as well as a swath of savanna outside Kruger National Park in South Africa.

    © Emily Nyrop

    A lone acacia tree in a sea of grass.

    Elephants, fire, Maasai and cattle

    Many of the new and emerging community conservancies have been carefully chosen as key wildlife corridors that would be threatened by overgrazing livestock.

    When the first Maasai Mara conservancies were established in 2009, cattle grazing was prohibited within their boundaries. When poorly managed, cattle can wear grasses down to their roots, triggering topsoil erosion and the loss of nutrients, microbes and biodiversity vital for soil health. It was also believed that tourists would be put off by the sight of livestock mingling with wildlife.

    © Emily Nyrop

    Cattle are closely monitored in the Maasai Mara to prevent overgrazing.

    However, over the years, landowners objected, lamenting the loss of cultural ties to cattle and herding. “That was when we changed tactics,” said Raphael Kereto, the grazing manager for Mara North Conservancy.

    Beginning in 2018, Mara North and other conservancies in the region started adopting livestock grazing practices to restore the savanna. Landowners agreed to periodically move livestock between different pastures, allowing grazed lands to recover and regrow,  mimicking the traditional methods pastoralists have used on these lands for hundreds, if not thousands, of years.

    “Initially, there was a worry that maybe herbivores and other wildlife will run away from cattle,” said Kereto. “But we have seen the exact opposite — the wildlife all follow where cattle are grazing. This is because we have a lot of grass, and all the animals follow where there is a lot of grass. We even saw a cheetah with a cub that spent all her time rotating with wildlife.”

    “It's amazing — when we move cattle, the cheetah comes with it.”

    The loans issued by the fund — now called the African Conservancies Facility — will enhance rotational grazing systems, which are practiced differently in each conservancy, by incorporating best practices and lessons from the organization’s Herding for Health program in southern Africa.

    © Will Turner

    An elephant herd stares down a pack of hyenas.

    For landowners like Dickson Kaelo, who was among the pioneers to propose the conservancy model in Kenya, the return of cattle to the ecosystem has restored a natural order.

    “I always wanted to understand how it was that there was so much more wildlife in the conservancies than in Maasai Mara National Reserve,” said Kaelo, who heads the Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Association, based in Nairobi.

    “I went to the communities and asked them this question. They told me savannas were created by elephants, fire and Maasai and cattle, and excluding any one of those is not good for the health of the system. So, I believe in the conservancies — I know that every single month, people go to the bank and they have some money, they haven't lost their culture because they still are cattle keepers, and the land is much healthier, with more grass, more wildlife, and the trees have not been cut.

    “For me, it’s something really beautiful.”


    Further reading:

    Will McCarry is the content director at Conservation International. Want to read more stories like this? Sign up for email updates. Also, please consider supporting our critical work.

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