Hvar dialects revisited

Published in Highlights

'Professor' Frank John Duboković created quite a sensation with his first public airing of Jelsa's very own special dialect.

Frankie Dubokovic with Paul Bradbury Frankie Dubokovic with Paul Bradbury Vivian Grisogono

The introduction of Jelsa's ubiquitous 'Ej!' pronounced somewhere between 'Eh!' and 'Eh-ee!' is a Youtube hit which earned the 'Professor' widespread fame. Long-lost relatives wrote in from far-flung places like Australia begging for an introduction. And a strong following built up into something like a unique FJD Fan Club, ensuring that Frank John is recognized not only on home territory but in many distant places.

Frank John hard at work, assisted by cousin Petar Bunčuga. Photo Vivian Grisogono

The dialect 'lessons' are the brain-child of Hvar's resident English blogger par excellence (well, OK, so he is the only one, but still, he's earned plenty of praise and prizes for his promotional work for Hvar and Dalmatia). Paul Bradbury has the perfect Mancunian deadpan expression, audible although never seen, to act as a counterfoil to Frank John's exuberance. The first 'lesson' was followed by lots of others, with many different unsuspecting innocents cast into the supporting role as the background against which Frank John demonstrates his skills.

Frankie with blogger-turned-film-director Paul. Photo Vivian Grisogono

The lessons are planned and rehearsed to the nth degree - ie almost not at all. That gives them the advantage of spontaneity, but sometimes a descent into chaos and confusion. The uncertainty is all part of the fun, helping to fill in the gaps on winter days when so many normal island activities are suspended.

Frank John deriving knowledge from the wise ones of Jelsa's Bench. Photo Vivian Grisogono

Inspiration and ideas are drawn from all sources, including the wise heads who occupy Jelsa's famous Bench.

Mayor Peronja at work, even during his official coffee break. Photo Vivian Grisogono

On Tuesday February 3rd 2015, the dialect teaching programme reached a new height, probably one which cannot be surpassed, when Jelsa's Mayor Nikša Peronja graciously agreed to take part. It's no mean feat to persuade the Mayor to interrupt his serious duties. Since his election he has worked tirelessly on several very large projects for the improvement of Jelsa's domain, at the same time succeeding in reducing the debt left by previous administrations. His coffee break is seldom an occasion for leisurely idle chat, it's simply a matter of swapping the smart big desk in his office for a tiny cafe table, just big enough to hold the papers he has to read and sign.

Mayor Niksa Peronja celebrates delivery of Jelsa's new rubbish carts. Photo Vivian Grisogono

The Mayor's projects have included major road improvements, upgrading the rubbish collection facilities in line with EU regulations, and a particular success in securing the first commercial seaplane service in Dalmatia, linking Jelsa harbour with Split airport.

Mayor Peronja ready to greet Dalmatia's first commercial seaplane flight. Photo Vivian Grisogono

In agreeing to take part in this particular dialect 'lesson', which was devised by Jelkom Director Toni Damjanić, Mayor Peronja probably had in mind that it would go some way towards cementing Anglo-Hvar friendship ties. It certainly is original, pointing out hitherto unperceived similarities between certain Jelsan dialect words and English. And the difference between those words and the standard Croatian versions. Will it make life easier or harder for tourists? It could go either way, but in any case it has made a lot of people laugh, and laughter is the best international language there is.

Frank John with Deputy Mayor Ivo Grgicevic and Mayor Niksa Peronja. Photo Vivian Grisogono

So, hats off to Blogger Bradders, 'Prof' FJD and OBL, also Toni Damjanić, for bringing sunlight to a cloudy rather dismal day on Hvar! To sum it up with a bit of doggerel:

The man who bears the Mayor's staff

Has shouldered quite a burden,

But still he knows to raise a laugh

And how to get a word in!

© Vivian Grisogono 2015

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    MARA NORTH CONSERVANCY, Kenya — Under a fading sun, Kenya’s Maasai Mara came alive.

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    © Will McCarry

    Elijah Toirai explains current conservancy boundaries and potential areas for expansion.

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    © Will Turner

    A black-backed jackal hunts for prey.

    “But then the nature finance team at Conservation International — these crazy guys — came up with a wild idea,” Alie said. “In just six months they put this entirely new funding model together: loaning money at an affordable rate to the conservancies so that they can continue to pay staff and wildlife rangers.”

    Conservation International and the Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association launched the African Conservancies Fund — a rescue package to offset lost revenues for approximately 3,000 people in the area who rely on tourism income. Between December 2020 and December 2022, the fund provided more than US$ 2 million in affordable loans to four conservancies managing 70,000 hectares (170,000 acres).

    The loans enabled families in the Maasai Mara to continue receiving income from their lands to pay for health care, home repairs, school fees and more. And because tourism revenues — not government funding — support wildlife protection in conservancies, this replacement funding ensured wildlife patrols continued normally, with rangers working full time.

    Born out of this emergency, we discovered a new way to do conservation.

    Elijah Toirai

    “The catastrophe of COVID-19 was total for us,” said Benard Leperes, a landowner with Mara North Conservancy and a conservation expert at Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association. “Without Conservation International and the fund, this landscape would have not been secured; the conservancies would have disintegrated as people were forced to sell their land to convert it to agriculture.”

    But it was communities themselves that proved the model might be replicable after the pandemic ended.

    “The conservancies had until 2023 before the first payment was due,” Toirai said. “But as soon as tourism resumed in mid-2021, the communities started paying back the loans. Today, the loans are being repaid way ahead of schedule.”

    “Born out of this emergency, we discovered a new way to do conservation.”

    A new era for conservation

    The high plateaus overlooking the Maasai Mara are home to the very last giant pangolins in Kenya.

    These mammals, armored with distinctive interlocking scales, are highly endangered because of illegal wildlife trade. In Kenya, threats from poaching, deforestation and electric fences meant to deter elephants from crops have caused the species to nearly disappear. Today, scientists believe there could be as few as 30 giant pangolins left in Kenya.

    Conservancies could be crucial to bringing them back. Conservation International has identified opportunities to provide transformative funding for conservancies in this area — a sprawling grassland northwest of Maasai Mara that is the very last pangolin stronghold in the country. The fund will help communities better protect an existing 10,000-hectare (25,000-acre) conservancy and bring an additional 5,000 hectares under protection. It provides a safety net, ensuring a steady income for the communities as the work of expanding the conservancy begins. With a stable income, communities can start work to restore the savanna and remove electric fences that have killed pangolins. And as wildlife move back into the ecosystem, the grasslands will begin to recover.

    In addition to expanding conservancies around Maasai Mara, Conservation International has identified other critical ecosystems where community conservancies can help lift people out poverty, while providing new habitats for wildlife. Conservation International has ambitious plans to restore a critical and highly degraded savanna between Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks in southern Kenya, as well as a swath of savanna outside Kruger National Park in South Africa.

    © Emily Nyrop

    A lone acacia tree in a sea of grass.

    Elephants, fire, Maasai and cattle

    Many of the new and emerging community conservancies have been carefully chosen as key wildlife corridors that would be threatened by overgrazing livestock.

    When the first Maasai Mara conservancies were established in 2009, cattle grazing was prohibited within their boundaries. When poorly managed, cattle can wear grasses down to their roots, triggering topsoil erosion and the loss of nutrients, microbes and biodiversity vital for soil health. It was also believed that tourists would be put off by the sight of livestock mingling with wildlife.

    © Emily Nyrop

    Cattle are closely monitored in the Maasai Mara to prevent overgrazing.

    However, over the years, landowners objected, lamenting the loss of cultural ties to cattle and herding. “That was when we changed tactics,” said Raphael Kereto, the grazing manager for Mara North Conservancy.

    Beginning in 2018, Mara North and other conservancies in the region started adopting livestock grazing practices to restore the savanna. Landowners agreed to periodically move livestock between different pastures, allowing grazed lands to recover and regrow,  mimicking the traditional methods pastoralists have used on these lands for hundreds, if not thousands, of years.

    “Initially, there was a worry that maybe herbivores and other wildlife will run away from cattle,” said Kereto. “But we have seen the exact opposite — the wildlife all follow where cattle are grazing. This is because we have a lot of grass, and all the animals follow where there is a lot of grass. We even saw a cheetah with a cub that spent all her time rotating with wildlife.”

    “It's amazing — when we move cattle, the cheetah comes with it.”

    The loans issued by the fund — now called the African Conservancies Facility — will enhance rotational grazing systems, which are practiced differently in each conservancy, by incorporating best practices and lessons from the organization’s Herding for Health program in southern Africa.

    © Will Turner

    An elephant herd stares down a pack of hyenas.

    For landowners like Dickson Kaelo, who was among the pioneers to propose the conservancy model in Kenya, the return of cattle to the ecosystem has restored a natural order.

    “I always wanted to understand how it was that there was so much more wildlife in the conservancies than in Maasai Mara National Reserve,” said Kaelo, who heads the Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Association, based in Nairobi.

    “I went to the communities and asked them this question. They told me savannas were created by elephants, fire and Maasai and cattle, and excluding any one of those is not good for the health of the system. So, I believe in the conservancies — I know that every single month, people go to the bank and they have some money, they haven't lost their culture because they still are cattle keepers, and the land is much healthier, with more grass, more wildlife, and the trees have not been cut.

    “For me, it’s something really beautiful.”


    Further reading:

    Will McCarry is the content director at Conservation International. Want to read more stories like this? Sign up for email updates. Also, please consider supporting our critical work.

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