Najveći Ljetni Blagdan: Vela Gospa

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Blagdan Vele Gospe je jedan od najznačajnijih blagdana u katoličkom kalendaru, te državni praznik u cijeloj Hrvatskoj.

Kip Gospe nošen kroz Splitsku na blagdan Vele Gospe. Kip Gospe nošen kroz Splitsku na blagdan Vele Gospe. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

U Splitskoj na otoku Braču je Gospa zaštitnica sela, tako da je blagdan Vele Gospe, 15. kolovoza jedan sasvim poseban dan. Kao i kod većine katoličkih blagdana, proslava počinje sa crkvenim slavljem, odavanjem počasti svecu kroz misu i procesiju. S obzirom, da se sve dovađa usred ljeta, misa bude uvijek predvečer.

Glavni oltar u Crkvi u Splitskoj ukrašen za Velu Gospu. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Kao i obično, misi prethodi crkveno zvono, koje počinje sat i petnaest minuta prije početka mise i glasi se svakih petnaest minuta. Samo što je ovaj put malo drukčije od uobičajenog u tome, da sva tri zvona zvone punom snagom kroz ručno pokretanje iskusnim zvonarima visoko u zvoniku. Postoji duga tradicija u ručnom udaranju na zvona u zvoniku, koje izvode 76-godišnji Vladimir Čeprnić i njegov rođak Pero Barbarić. Zadatak zahtjeva odličnu fizičku kondiciju. Uspon do zvonika nije jednostavan i pokretanje teških zvona i zvonjenje, posebice onoga velikoga, je pitanje snage i izdržljivosti. Prije početka mise zvone zvona po nekoliko minuta. Tijekom procesije koja slijedi nakon mise, zvone neprekidno za vrijeme trajanje šetnje po selu, koje traje više od pola sata.

Vladimir Čeprnić uzima predah u pauzi između dvije zvonjave. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Za misu se mala crkvica uvijek napuni do zadnjeg mjesta a mnogi sudjeluju i vani ispred glavnog ulaza. Mnogo više ljudi se pridruži procesiji nakon mise. Tijekom mise pokreće crkveno zvono u ključnim svečanim trenucima sin Vladimira Čeprnića, Jure, redovni zvonar Splitske. Procesija kreće uzbrdo u večernjem suncu s kipom Majke Božje i Djeteta, koji nose četiri mladića iz sela praćeni župnikom don Markom Plančićem.

Izlazak iz crkve na početku procesije. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Bočni oltar, na kojem se obično nalazi portret Djevice s Djetetom, svečano je ukrašen u iščekivanju povratka kipa.

Bočni oltar bez svog kipa. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Procesija skreće lijevo kroz vrata crkve, umjesto da ide niz glavne stepenice prema rivi i vodi uzbrdo obilazeći glavni dio sela. Vođena je uobičajenom dvojicom stjegonoša sa zastavama u čast Gospi.

Stjegonoše procesije. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Iza stjegonoša hoda grupa muškaraca, nakon njih mlade djevojke odjevene kao mali anđeli noseći latice cvijeća. Starija djeca u svečanoj odjeći hodaju iza nositelja kipa a nakon njih hoda župnik don Marko u izolaciji.

Procesija se vraća natrag u crkvu. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Nakon što je obišla gornju sjevernu stranu sela, procesija dolazi na rivu i skreće desno prema crkvi. Prolazi pored glavnog ulaza u crkvu, ide ravno kroz rivu prolazeći pored ulaza u Cerineo/Cerinić vilu, gdje se okreće kako bi krenula prema crkvi. Kako su uvijek uz cestu parkirani automobili, može postati prilično usko za okretanje procesije, ali sve do danas je ova manja neugodnost uvijek prošla bez ikakvih komplikacija.

Klapa Rišpet. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Do završetka procesije se uvijek smrači. Nakon toga je kratko zatišje, dok ljudi večeraju ili šetaju oko štandova na rivi kupujući balone i nove igračke za djecu. U 21:00 počinje veselje. U 2016. godini je večer otvorila Klapa Rišpet sa svojim prekrasno raznolikim repertoarom pjesama, nekim a cappella, ali ponajviše u pratnji instrumenata. Publika se s oduševljenjem priključila pjevanju a klapa je spremno odgovorila i na njene glazbene želje. Djeca su neumorno plesala, roditelji su slikali, odrasli se družili u razgovorima, neki su jeli kobasice ili palačinke prodavane na štandovima brze hrane, bezalkoholno piće i pivo se konzumiralo u velikim količinama. Koji put su djeca upadala na pozornicu, da bi ih odrasli povukli natrag zabrinuti oko moguće opasnosti od električnih žica. Vitka mlada dama u vrućim hlaćicama se popela na pozornicu ispred klape i izgledalo je, da će i ono malo što ima na sebi biti uklonjeno u nizu seksi pokreta na glasnu radost dijela publike. Međutim, završetka nije bilo, jer je zastrašujuće veliki čuvar odjeven u prijeteće crne kožne hlače stručno vratio mladu damu natrag na zemlju.

Jure u središtu pozornosti. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Negdje blizu ponoći, Klapa Rišpet je napustila pozornicu, da bi je zamijenio popularni pjevački dvojac, koji redovito nastupa na blagdanima Splitske. No, osjetilo se nestrpljenje u zraku: svake godine je vrhunac scenskog nastupa pojavljivanje zvonara Juru Čeprnića.

Jure i njegova oduševljena publika. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Potaknut grupom prijatelja, Jure svake godine preuzima pozornicu i izvodi nekoliko pjesama, koje su uvijek dobro primljene među njegovom predanom publikom - fan klubom lojalnih mještana.

Jure u svom najboljem izdanju na pozornici. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

2016. godine se mlada dama, čiju je striptiz točku prekinuo krupni izbacivač, ponovno pojavila na pozornici zajedno sa Jurom, uz oduševljen pljesak publike. Ovoga puta je zadržala svoju odjeću ali je izvela nekoliko vrlo nepriličnih pokreta, nimalo pogodnih za ono podosta djece, koja su još uvijek bila prisutna. Srećom je većina one najmlađe djece tada već spavala u naručjima svojih roditelja a pretpostavljam, da je većina one starije djece i tako sve to već vidjela na televiziji i na internetu.

Jure i strastvena ´Gospođica Vruće-Hlačice´. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Potaknute primjerom ´Gospođice Vruće-Hlačice´, još dvije - mlađe i pristojnije - plesačice su se popele na pozornicu i pridružile se Juri, tako da se atmosfera dobrog raspoloženja proširila kako među izvođačima tako i među publikom. Kako bi upotpunila svoj imidž opuštene sofisticiranosti, "Gospođica Vruće-Hlačice" je zapalila cigaretu i bezbrižno je kružila oko svojih oblačića dima.

Jure i njegove mlade prateće plesačice. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Jure se nije činio nimalo uznemiren svim ovim upadima, sretno se smiješeći nastavlja sa setom svojih pjesama. Pred kraj je bio nagrađen poljupcem u obraz, nakon kojeg je "Gospođica Vruće-Hlačice" skočila s pozornice - koristeći moju glavu i osobu pored mene kao odskočnu dasku.

Poljubac za nagradu za Juru. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Juri je nakon njegove izvedbe aplaudirala publika i ljudi su mu čestitali sa svih strana dok je veličanstveno hodao rivom.. Jurin trenutak slave je bio gotov za ovu godinu, upisan mu je opet jedan veliki uspjeh. Pjevački dvojac, potaknut Jurinim primjerom, pjevao je s guštom do 2 sata ujutro, kada se selo vratilo u svoje normalne razine relativne tišine, izuzev nekolicine bučnih izoliranih skupina.

Veliko zvono Splitske u akciji za Velu Gospu. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Pohvale lokalnim službama za zbrinjavanje otpada i svim organizatorima: pozornica i gotovo svaki komadić smeća su bili uklonjeni do sljedećeg jutra.

Djevica s Djetetom, fokus pobožnosti. Foto: Vivian Grisogono

Vela Gospa: veliki blagdan za Katoličku Hrvatsku, a u Splitskoj (vjerojatno i drugdje) i fina mješavina pobožnosti i hedonizma, možda točno odražavajuća kontraste postojeće unutar dalmatinskog načina života.

© Vivian Grisogono 2016

Prijevod: Ivana Župan

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